Taking the Train to Strasbourg

We woke up early and boarded a train heading east. If you’re looking for a quiet, cozy, picturesque trip Strasbourg could be the perfect spot. The tickets were very cheap, about 30 euros return from Paris because it was mid-week and just before the Christmas market opened, so there wasn’t much demand. Strasbourg has one of the best Christmas markets in the world but it’s just as enjoyable a few weeks before then, because you can still meander through the village-like streets in the snow, admire the architecture, and nibble on gingerbread, and sip hot spiced cider. One of my favorite foods was tarte flambée, a very thin kind of Germanic pizza usually with a base of crème fraiche and onions. There are a multitude of varieties, from melted cheese, goat cheese and honey, to sauteed apples and cinnamon drizzled with Calvados liquor. 

On the second day, we spontaneously decided to walk to Germany. It didn’t look too far on the map and we love walking long distances so we bundled up, packed drinks and snacks in our leather messenger bags, hoped it wouldn't rain or snow, and set out after a rather late breakfast. Luckily, I was wearing my comfortable cowboy boots. It was sunny but very cold. We only had one pair of wooly gloves between us so we each wore one and kept the other hands pocketed. 

First, we walked through the city of Strasbourg, then along a kind of highway, then through an industrial area, through a park, and finally we arrived at the French/ German border. Three flags billowed above us. There was nobody there so we just walked through the little gate. There was grass and a tiny hilly path. Suddenly I spotted a circus tent and besides that a stable and horses. I was delighted to see creatures on the walk. A beautiful brown horse stared at me as I pressed against the gate. We continued until we arrived at a bridge. There was a lovely view of a river and trees and old German houses. 

Walking to Germany while doing a Monty Python impression

We watched the sun set from the banks of Germany and then explored the closest town. Hungry, we picked a random restaurant and shared a plate of fried dumplings filled with vegetables and covered in melted cheese, an onion and potato salad, and a leafy salad with shredded celeriac. It was delicious. A drank a strange local specialty: beer mixed with Coca Cola. I guess it’s the German equivalent of Kalimotxo. We also stopped by a everything-for-a-euro shop because those can be interesting when you travel to different countries. I found some tasty marzipan chocolates. They also sold the smallest jar of Nutella I had ever seen – it was about the size of a silver dollar coin. A picked up some local pastries minutes before the pâtisserie shut and then we got a ride back to France.

Here are some local foods to try in Strasbourg:

-The cheesy spetzle and hot apple cider at La Corde à Linge.

-Big soft pretzels at any bakery.

-Tarte flambée at Binchstub (6 Rue du Tonnelet Rouge.) So tasty we took one on the train with us.

-Grog or mulled wine anywhere. (We enjoyed Le Schluch and Jeanette et les Cycleux for casual drinks.)

-Gingerbread cookies at Christian bakery (12 Rue de l’Outre.)

Here are a few places to visit:

-Le Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain. They have several works by the amazing Gustave Doré.

-Le Musée Alsacien – a museum housed in an ancient building dedicated to local history and furniture.

-There’s also a museum of illustration but it was closed to install the next exhibition while we were in town.

-Uncle T’s record shop for fair-priced vinyls and assorted comic books.

-Le Bouclier d’Or is the most charming hotel in Strasbourg, and they have large discounts when it’s off-season/ before the Christmas Market.

-The Christmas Market (if you don’t mind crowds.)

-La Grande Île neighborhood. It's full of storybook historic houses. Walk around here on your first day.