Taking the Train to Strasbourg

We woke up early and boarded a train heading east. If you’re looking for a quiet, cozy, picturesque trip Strasbourg could be the perfect spot. The tickets were very cheap, about 30 euros return from Paris because it was mid-week and just before the Christmas market opened, so there wasn’t much demand. Strasbourg has one of the best Christmas markets in the world but it’s just as enjoyable a few weeks before then, because you can still meander through the village-like streets in the snow, admire the architecture, and nibble on gingerbread, and sip hot spiced cider. One of my favorite foods was tarte flambée, a very thin kind of Germanic pizza usually with a base of crème fraiche and onions. There are a multitude of varieties, from melted cheese, goat cheese and honey, to sauteed apples and cinnamon drizzled with Calvados liquor. 

On the second day, we spontaneously decided to walk to Germany. It didn’t look too far on the map and we love walking long distances so we bundled up, packed drinks and snacks in our leather messenger bags, hoped it wouldn't rain or snow, and set out after a rather late breakfast. Luckily, I was wearing my comfortable cowboy boots. It was sunny but very cold. We only had one pair of wooly gloves between us so we each wore one and kept the other hands pocketed. 

First, we walked through the city of Strasbourg, then along a kind of highway, then through an industrial area, through a park, and finally we arrived at the French/ German border. Three flags billowed above us. There was nobody there so we just walked through the little gate. There was grass and a tiny hilly path. Suddenly I spotted a circus tent and besides that a stable and horses. I was delighted to see creatures on the walk. A beautiful brown horse stared at me as I pressed against the gate. We continued until we arrived at a bridge. There was a lovely view of a river and trees and old German houses. 

Walking to Germany while doing a Monty Python impression

We watched the sun set from the banks of Germany and then explored the closest town. Hungry, we picked a random restaurant and shared a plate of fried dumplings filled with vegetables and covered in melted cheese, an onion and potato salad, and a leafy salad with shredded celeriac. It was delicious. A drank a strange local specialty: beer mixed with Coca Cola. I guess it’s the German equivalent of Kalimotxo. We also stopped by a everything-for-a-euro shop because those can be interesting when you travel to different countries. I found some tasty marzipan chocolates. They also sold the smallest jar of Nutella I had ever seen – it was about the size of a silver dollar coin. A picked up some local pastries minutes before the pâtisserie shut and then we got a ride back to France.

Here are some local foods to try in Strasbourg:

-The cheesy spetzle and hot apple cider at La Corde à Linge.

-Big soft pretzels at any bakery.

-Tarte flambée at Binchstub (6 Rue du Tonnelet Rouge.) So tasty we took one on the train with us.

-Grog or mulled wine anywhere. (We enjoyed Le Schluch and Jeanette et les Cycleux for casual drinks.)

-Gingerbread cookies at Christian bakery (12 Rue de l’Outre.)

Here are a few places to visit:

-Le Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporain. They have several works by the amazing Gustave Doré.

-Le Musée Alsacien – a museum housed in an ancient building dedicated to local history and furniture.

-There’s also a museum of illustration but it was closed to install the next exhibition while we were in town.

-Uncle T’s record shop for fair-priced vinyls and assorted comic books.

-Le Bouclier d’Or is the most charming hotel in Strasbourg, and they have large discounts when it’s off-season/ before the Christmas Market.

-The Christmas Market (if you don’t mind crowds.)

-La Grande Île neighborhood. It's full of storybook historic houses. Walk around here on your first day.

The light in Lisbon...plus records & palaces

  

I flew to Lisbon and arrived at a 4-storey pink building that was one or two hundred years old. I walked up three flights of wooden stairs with my little suitcases and met my friend João. Right away he took me to a little Bossa Nova concert performed by young men with wavy hair. Afterwards, we met his friend for an astoundingly delicious Lebanese feast. We ate and drank pomegranate juice, while talking about our families, our fathers, and festivals. For dessert we shared an orange blossom crème brûlée before walking home in the moonlight.

The next morning we drove to a quiet beach and met two of João’s friends: Victor, a dapper French man who looks like a young Clark Gable and Mario, a witty Portuguese diplomat with curly hair and a dry sense of humor. Mario recalled meeting me in London years ago and we guessed where until we figured it out. The boys told me about scorpion fish and then we swam in the icy sea. Afterwards, we went to an outdoor café and ate green bean tempura, a Portuguese specialty, as well as fried eggs mixed with potatoes and a local sheep cheese. A tall woman rode past us on a horse, before disappearing into the trees, like a Magritte painting come to life.

On Saturday I woke up early and visited the flea market. I love looking through faded postcards, beloved junk, life-size ceramic dogs, unusual books, and other bizarre treasures. There was a variety of flippers, 90s pornography, and trinkets shining in the morning sunlight. What really caught my attention were the records. First I bought a weathered 1970s compilation for a few euros. Then I saw a hard-to-find record with some excellent breakdance songs on it. 

Suddenly, in the only box protected from the sun, appeared an original 1967 vinyl of my favorite Velvet Underground album. My heart beat faster, examining it carefully. The cover had a peel-off banana designed by Andy Warhol.  I felt like Indiana Jones discovering the grail. I put the record down, thought about it, then wove back through the people, and asked about the small coffee stain on the cover. The seller cleaned it with alcohol and told me he nearly took the record for himself. We chatted about Lou Reed and then I bought it. I floated through the streets, past the pastel houses, looking for an old ice cream parlor.

An accurate picture of me when I'm hungry

THINGS TO DO IN LISBON

-Walk around different neighborhoods in the center and admire the beautiful colorful houses. Remember to pack shoes that are good for cobblestones and steep hills.

-Visit the museums (e.g. Museo do Oriente, CAM).

-Buy presents (beautiful retro packaged Portuguese things) around Chiado at A vida Portuguesa (spices, old school toothpaste, tinned goods), Claus Porto (soaps, candles, and perfumes), and Benamôr 1925 (beautiful creams and bath products).

-Wake up early and wander around the flea market Fiera da Ladra on Saturday then buy a vintage paperback novel at the bookseller market on Ria Anchieta in Chiado (cash only).

-Take a day trip to Sintra and visit the Palacio da Pena or drive to a surfer beach.

-Nightlife: Go party at Lounge or at the nightclub Lux (opens late) or Damas (fun artsy/queer crowd, arrive early-ish to avoid a long line).

WHERE TO EAT

 

-My favorite meal in Lisbon was at Farès – it’s a cozy place with incredible Lebanese food. Order the stuffed sweet potatoes and the orange blossom crème brûlée. Rua de S. Paulo 200.

 

-Enjoy Portuguese food at Faz Frio. It’s open late too. They have private areas for larger tables.

 

-Rua Santos-O-Velho has two fantastic brunch places (Heim and Mila) as well as Yalla, a Middle Eastern restaurant. Mila is also good for people watching and the service is fast.

 

-Eat sorbet at Santini gelateria. I loved the melon flavor and the citrus Santini flavor.

-Try veggie versions of Portuguese classics at the vegan comfort food café Kong

 

-Drink Lisbon’s famous coffee at any classic bar

 

Local creams and a groovy toothpaste

P.S. Come visit but please don’t move here, my Portuguese friends say. Due to the recent explosion of TED-talk tote-carrying tech people and crypto traders moving to the city the rents have tripled, forcing many locals out of their neighborhoods.

P.P.S. I heard these places were fun but didn’t have time to visit them: cocktails at The Red Frog or Pavilhão Chinês, visiting the Palacio Foz. 

For more pictures check out my Instagram: @thefortunyverse .

Meandering in Marrakesh

Recently I had the chance to go to Marrakesh to celebrate the birthday of my beloved friend, Patricia, a poet and alchemist. It’s only a couple of hours from where I live and I’ve always dreamt of going to Morocco so I packed my most demure 1970s garb (inspired by peak Yves Saint Laurent) and a sketchbook and headed down to Marrakesh. As we drove into the city, we saw stone walls, discontent donkeys with matted fur, and a couple of camels crouching beneath palm trees. We walked into the labyrinth of the old souk, down shadowy alleyways, until we arrived at an inconspicuous wooden door. 

Suddenly a French man and his dog opened the door and invited us inside a riad. We walked into this secret courtyard dripping with vines, bright foliage and blossoms. Hundreds of pomegranates lay at our feet. He led us past yellow-painted doors, to our colorful rooms, each decorated with different local embroideries, fresh flowers, and books in various languages. When we returned from our lunch of salads, falafel, spicy hummus, and kiwi juice, a fire was blazing in the hearth of every room.

Over the next few days, we explored the city on foot. We admired the sunken gardens of orange trees and palace ruins. Later, a cool café offered shade and bitter orange cake as Stevie Wonder played in the background. An old man threw a live monkey at our friend as we crossed the famous Djemaa el-Fna square. The creature clung to his arm before he handed it back. A meter away, a fellow wrapped a long cobra around a boy’s shoulders. A nearby table was heaped with fruit, being sliced and squeezed into fresh juice. There was so much to look at in every direction. Later, we drank the colors at the Yves Saint Laurent museum and gardens, overflowing with hot pink bougainvillea, blue architecture, and tall cactus plants. There was a beautiful little restaurant where we sampled orange blossom, pistachio, and date ice creams.

Another day we headed to a different market. My friend Marta and I bought harissa and loose tea made of dried verbena, flower petals, and curved leaves. We asked some local women for directions and they kindly walked us to the square we were looking for. On Patricia’s birthday we sat at a long candlelit table and feasted on crisp pastries stuffed with soft cheese, crunchy salads, hot pears sprinkled with cinnamon, massive artichokes, limpid green beans, clay pots of vegetable stew, and a date cake covered in white, creamy frosting and nuts.

HERE ARE A FEW PLACES I RECOMMEND VISITING:

The Badi Palace, a large ruin with pool, trees, and a view from upstairs.

Bahia Palace, an elaborately decorated palace.

The Saadian Tombs.

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum & Jardin Majorelle & the small Berber Museum. You can get all three on one ticket. If you love fashion, the bookstore at the YSL Museum is excellent – bring a tote bag! The restaurant in the garden is delicious. Try the desserts.

Musée des Confluences, archeology and there’s a famous coffee shop inside.

Djemaa El Fna- a lively (intense) square filled with tourists by day and locals on weekend nights. You can find snake charmers, sad monkeys, hunks of meat, and outdoor dining at communal tables.

Various markets: carry cash in the local currency, and bargain. Look for spices, unusual teas, necklaces, leather goods, cotton pajamas, and argan oil. Try the fresh pomegranate juice.

Leave the center, dressed appropriately (cover your limbs), and explore. There are lots of fascinating things to see. I felt more comfortable when walking with a two-meter-tall Dutchman…so go with a friend.

I Love London

I returned to London last week, just for a few days. It felt like coming home, walking the familiar streets, seeing friends, and eating delicacies that are hard to find in Spain, like spicy Indian food or very soft chocolate chip cookies. I love listening to friends speaking numerous languages on the tube and watching the stylish people rush around the city. On Thursday night, my friend Sarah took me to a Halloween-themed magazine launch party in a members club. The host handed us red cocktails in mock blood-transfusion bags with a long straw, before introducing us to a flirtatious couple. Afterwards we went to Ridley Road for a dance in a bar with wood-paneled walls. I think a Klaxon was playing disco records that night.

Stephanie, a vegan chef, shows me her chains in Dalston

We cruised by a few more pubs before ending up at my favourite one, The Gun, in Hackney. As soon as we arrived, a petite blond in a zip-up patent leather moto suit smiled, and put her arms around me. She complimented my long blue 70s dress and the yellow flowers in my hair. I told her she reminded me of Marianne Faithfull in 'The Girl on a Motorcycle'. I ordered a Paloma and the bartender recognized me from ten years ago, when we used to go to the same parties. I bumped into a friend who invited us to an Italodisco warehouse party in Hackney Wick. A tall, slim, androgynous girl with short dark hair caught my eye. She wore a sheer black blouse, a minimal black bra, a scrap of black underwear...and fringed ass-less chaps. Her boyish looks and clean face added a casual touch to the outfit. It felt like Prince was in the room. She was enchanting. She was from Georgia. We all danced and mingled until the bar closed.

The Dove pub

The rest of my days in London were filled with museum exhibitions and fascinating conversations with beloved friends. I reunited with a friend who had been living in jungles in Thailand and Peru for years. We met as teenagers at a rave in Vauxhall, lived together (she kindly let me stay on her sofa when I first moved to London), worked together (she opened a burlesque supper club and asked me to DJ there), met up on an island in Thailand six years ago...and rode a moped on rocky roads, while a bird flew through my hair, almost causing us to fly off a cliff. I told her to write a book about all the things she learned in the jungle. We drank tea, ate cookies, and told sexy stories.

Homemade cookies by the multi-talented Andreas

Another afternoon I went to the V&A Museum to revisit the excellent Mary Quant show and have tea with my friend Toby. (Quant probably invented the modern miniskirt, thus she is my hero.) I met Toby at a Turkish pool hall in Dalston back when Mark Ronson drank there, surrounded by girls dancing until their shoes broke. (I was one of those girls... I lifted up my friend Karen in an attempt to replicate the final scene in 'Dirty Dancing' and though she is light, on the way down one heel broke off.) The pool hall days are over. Now we meet in art museums. He told me about contextualizing my art with theory, and recommended analysing what I love and hate to arrive at a deeper meaning when creating artworks...

The Ed Ruscha rooms at the Tate Modern

Below is a list of my favourite spots in London, and I'll post some pictures tonight on Instagram @thefortunyverse

FOOD:

Indian food: Dishoom in Shoreditch (they have a mocktail that tastes like snow, it's amazing.)
Tayaabs: a popular, inexpensive, chaotic, classic place behind the mosque in Whitechapel. Order the Saag Aloo and the Peshwari naan. Both places have long lines so try to go off-peak or early.
Sweets: Gelupo has dreamy gelato and the best hot chocolate outside of Torino. Get a small gianduja hot chocolate with whipped cream and go back for the ice cream another day so you don't have a diabetic arrest.
Hummingbird Bakery has the best cupcakes. I like Black Bottom or the gingerbread one.
Ben's Cookies. There are numerous branches. These cookies are great to bring to friends. They're soft, chewy, and very chocolately.
Brunch/ Hangover Food: Stone Cave in Dalston has a wonderful shakshuka (eggs poached in a delicious tomato stew, spiced with paprika, nutmeg, and chili peppers.)
The Diner (Dalston, Shoreditch, Soho) has In &Out-style 'hangar fries', a great vegan breakfast burger and thick milkshakes, with or without booze.

ART:

Usually the Barbican and the V & A have the most unforgettable exhibitions, though you should also see what's on at the Hayward Gallery, the Photographers Gallery in Soho, the Tate Modern and the Tate Britain. If you're going to London soon, check out the Blake show at the Tate Britain and the Lisa Bruce exhibition. Skip the Olafur E at the Tate Modern. (He's usually fantastic but this show is claustrophobic and jammed with people taking selfies. Go upstairs to the free Ed Ruscha rooms instead.) The Tate Modern gift shop is very good too. Peckham has lots of cool little galleries. Sprueth Magers is usually fun and has hip openings.

SHOPPING/ PRESENTS:

Portobello Road: On Friday morning there is a large vintage clothes and antiques market. There's usually nowhere to change so wear a leotard or tights. Next to the vintage stalls, Ladbroke Grove side, there's a little store called What Katie Did that sells a variety of seamed stockings and 50s-style lingerie. I found a beautiful 1970s Biba-style jacket for 40 pounds (after bargaining) and a blue leather Prada belt for 10 pounds. The Biba dresses were 380 pounds, so I only glanced at them longingly.

Broadway Market on Saturday, around lunchtime/ early afternoon. There are 2 excellent art bookstores here and in the market itself, there's a cool French girl who sells wool kilts and retro pieces. Borough Olives sells tasty pestos, harissa, and delicious green olives. This is a fun market for people-watching, pesto sampling, and it's not crowded or touristy like Borough Market. The Dove pub, on the same street,  has a large variety of international beers as well as board games.

Liberty London: A cool but classic, expensive store in a Tudor-style building, made partially of old ships. Upstairs, there are bolts of the famous Liberty-print fabrics. The perfume and stationary sections are interesting too. Amongst the notebooks and pastel pens, they sell gift wrap that looks like old maps.

Paks: They sell all kinds of cheap but intriguing make up in hard-to-find colours, as well as wigs and beauty products. There's one on Ridley Road in Dalston.

The High Street: Holland & Barrett has every kind of vitamin you can imagine, usually on sale, as well as honey soap and health-food store snacks and beauty products. Topshop in Oxford Circus - yes, it's intense, but they still have fun clothes. Right now the Fiorucci x Adidas collection is worth checking out. Boots has all kinds of make up, bandaids, and general pharmacy items. I like the Avène moisturizer and the Kalms One-a-night natural chill pills.

The Girl on a Motorcycle

Barcelona: Where to Eat & Frolic

Flash Flash

I took the train to Barcelona recently. I lived there for a year and a half but this was the best time I had in the crowded seaside city. There were so many great moments...a spontaneous trip to the beach with an enchanting Catalan girl and a beautiful Argentinean, who promptly removed all her clothes as soon as we sat by the water. We swam in the sea and then lounged in our underwear, feeling the sand on our legs and the sun warming our skin. 

Then we visited my friend the artist Monstruo Espagueti. She gave me a portrait she had drawn of me and I brought her guacamole atop homemade tortilla chips with a slice of lime.

That night my friend Vir, a pixie from Buenos Aires, and I visited a friend who was djing at Olgod, a bar that served Beertails. Hold on, they were surprisingly delicious! A beer mojito is just right when your liver is screaming at you for staying out until dawn at Primavera Sound the night before. We walked a few minutes until we came to a small club where an English friend was djing Italodisco. We danced and talked to a fascinating Tango guitarist. Between the loud music and his accent, everything he said sounded like leaves rustling in the wind but somehow I understood what he meant.

The rest of the weekend I poked around record stores, ate vegan schwarma, wandered around the Gothic quarter in the moonlight, and saw as many friends as possible.

In hopes that you'll have an equally exciting time, here's my guide to Barcelona:

The Design Museum

WHERE TO EAT

1. Casa Lolea, in El Borne. A delicious tapas restaurant. Order the melty truffle risotto, the light patatas bravas, and the crispy pan de crystal. Actually, everything here is fantastic. Make a reservation.

2. Bormuth, in El Borne. Another great, and cheap, tapas restaurant, for carnivores and vegetarians. The potatoes "mojo picon" are unforgettable and the fried aubergine with honey is also tasty. To try a Catalan specialty, order the spinach with pine nuts. Try the vermut too - ask for "el siphon" if it's too intense.

3. El Vaso de Oro, in Barceloneta. This is an old school authentic bar with a few tables and sassy waiters. Order fried artichokes and fuet (Catalan sausage) and pâté. There aren't many veggie options. This bar is best for a snack or beers.

4. Sesamo, in Sant Antoni. This is a low-key vegetarian tapas restaurant that's only open for dinner. Try the roast cauliflower dish, the gnocchi with beet and cheese sauce, and the gazpacho. Only open after 7 pm.

5. Sensi Tapas Mezzanine, in Gothic quarter. Open late, good for big groups. Order the truffle ravioli, and the zucchini and goat cheese tempura. They also have a tiny paella if you just want a few bites of the famous dish.

6. Flash Flash, in Eixample/ Gracia. A groovy tortilla restaurant with excellent croquettes. It's the most lively at lunchtime.

7. Can Mano, Jaica, and Bitacora, all close by in Barceloneta. The first two are classic, inexpensive tapas places specializing in seafood and meat dishes. Bitacora is a little neighborhood restaurant that has amazing patatas bravas and a few vegetarian options. Bar Fanny, on the corner, has the same kitchen as Bitacora.

8. Pizza Circus, in Raval. Take-out, cheap and fantastic New York-style pizza by the slice. The one on Nou de la Rambla street is the best.  Another quick, cheap dinner option: Muns empanadas, in Raval and Poblenou. The best empanadas in town.

9. Hummus Barcelona, in Eixample. Try the energizing vegan schwarma with creamy hummus and a hard-boiled egg, especially if you're low on sleep. The best time to go is weekdays for the menu del dia. 

BRUNCH & COFFEE:

10. Caravelle, in Raval. They have the best Eggs Benedict and great coffee. Get there early or there's a long line.

11. Federal, a brunch spot in the Gothic quarter. There's one in Sant Antoni too but the one in Gothic is less crowded. They have a hangover-curing dish called shakshuka, which is delicious.

12. Satan's Coffee Corner, in the Gothic quarter. Excellent coffee, healthy breakfasts.

SWEETS: Gelaaati in Gothic has the most original ice cream, Rocambolesc in Raval has the best soft ice cream with creative toppings like cotton candy, and La Colmena in Gothic has the tastiest meringues. Make sure to get the tall ones in foil. I like chocolate or lemon.

A bar in Poble Sec

WHERE TO DRINK

1. Bar Olimpic, in Raval. This whole street (Joaquin Costa) is filled with bars. Olimpic is small and charming with cheap cocktails.

2. Foxy, in Raval/ Sant Antoni. Fun atmosphere, reasonable cocktails and fresh piña coladas.

3. Bar Marsella, in Raval. Hemingway used to drink at this absinth joint. It's kind of touristy now but still attracts interesting people and you might run into someone you know here. I usually do.

4. Madame Jasmine, in Raval. A hip gay/ mixed bar with outdoor seating.

5. Ølgod , in Raval, craft beer bar with beertails. Brooklyn vibes.

There are lots of bars in Raval, Sant Antoni, Bogatell, and if you want a mellower scene, there's Gracia and Poble Sec. There are plenty of clubs too. The most decadent/ art + disco night is Glove Party.

THINGS TO DO

See Gaudi's fantastical architecture. To visit Gaudi's masterpiece the Sagrada Familia you have to book online in advance. Only go to Park Guell on a sunny day to enjoy the full view. Casa Battlo and La Pedrera are two semi-psychedelic residences located in Eixample. If you're short on time or money just visit the Palau Guell in Raval.

Swim in the Mediterranean. The best beaches are outside the city so hop on a train at Sants or at Arc de Triomf train station (not metro) and get off at Montgat (R1 to Matadero), or if you have more time take the R1 (direction: Blanes) to Sant Pol de Mar, which is 96 minutes away.

Shopping: Pepa Paper has good-looking notebooks (Consell de Cent, 276. Eixample). Regia has fantastic perfumes and colognes (Passeig de Gracia, 39. Eixample) and Farmacia del Palau has less expensive perfumes (Ramblas, 118). Get handmade espadrilles at La Manual Alpargatera (Calle d'Avinyo, 7. Gothic). Buy wine and Espolon tequila (it's not Spanish but it's hard to find in Europe and will enhance your trip) at Vins i licors Vilanova (Placa del Pedro, 7. Raval). Get gifts at Fantastik (Carrer de Joaquin Costa, 62.) La Central has a vast selection of books.

If you like people watching and collecting things check out Palo Alto market (mostly gigs and food) or Lost & Found market (vintage stuff and records).

Art Museums: The CCCB, the Design Museum and Macba are the best.

ADVICE - Barcelona is one of the pickpocket capitals of the world; always keep your hand on your pocket or bag. Leave your passport and valuables where you're staying- just keep a photo of the picture page on your phone. Always keep your iphone out of sight as much as possible; don't leave it on the table at a cafe or talk on it for long late at night. Also, at bars and restaurants keep your bag in your lap not under the table or on a chair. Avoid the smaller streets of Raval after midnight if you're by yourself. Culturally - be aware that locals generally consider themselves part of Cataluña, not part of Spain. This is a hot political issue. If you learn some basic words in Catalan people will appreciate it. Diverteix-te!

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9 Nights in Madrid

Source: La Bobia Laberinto de Pasiones.

On my first night I raced through the city at sunset on a motorbike as the wind lifted the hem of my dress above my bare knees... A few days later, an enchanting Colombian girl took me to an ancient tapas bar with no chairs and the best tortilla in Madrid. Then there was the time my friend Martina, a willowy Austrian with Marc Bolan curls, invited me to watch the cult Super 8 film 'Arrebato' at the Filmoteca, followed by vermouth at a bar where they only played vinyl and everyone had long shiny hair. One evening I strolled through Retiro Park, queasy, yet enjoying the dusk cloaking the trees in shadows. 

A still from 'Arrebato', 1979.

Every night was different, and many were calm (noodles, movies on the sofa) so I'll just tell you about my last night. On Saturday, I put on a long striped dress and met my friend Guillermo at the metro, along with an exciting Mexican girl named Mayra. First we went to a classic nightclub that reminded me of some cruise ship disco from the 80s (not that I've been on any cruise ships or to discos in the 80s - but one can imagine - a James Bond set where Grace Jones appears - in a velvet catsuit, right?)

Grace Jones in Vogue

My friend Will invited us there to see his band play. The audience was loving Flat Worms, dancing, drumming their fingers on lanky thighs, and murmuring excitedly, even though it was only seven o'clock, which is practically the middle of the afternoon in Spain. After the gig we walked to a quiet bar called Picnic, where they serve cheap beers and frozen piña coladas. 

A madrileño, source unknown.

Next we fortified ourselves at Aio, a delicious Italian restaurant. My other friend named Guillermo, a fascinating young professor, was waiting for us with a round of Aperol Spritzes. Mayra's tales of wildness had everyone laughing. Everyone was getting along swimmingly. Soon we were calling the guys 'Los Tres Guillermos'.

After the feast of pasta and tiramisu, we stepped into a bar with faded rock posters and old covers of Melody Maker collaged onto the walls and ceilings. Girls were drawing on boys' arms; boys were looking at girls, while others played pool in the corner. I chanced upon an empty barstool and began the tower of coats with my sky-blue raincoat. Mayra and I danced to the 70s rock & roll and soon everyone joined us.

After it got too crowded, we ambled through a parade of debauchery in Malasaña, to a nightclub called Trashcan. We checked out the mostly Mod and psych crowd and found a spot near the dj. He was picking out the best 45s. Every song was fantastic. He put on the Buzzcock's single 'Ever Fallen in Love...' Everybody danced and sang along and swerved into each other with that elation that appears sometime between midnight and dawn. We met new friends, danced and hollered, and continued on our disco safari.

I found some pretty girls on the way to the next little club and invited them to join us. The brisk walk was enormously refreshing. We were ready for more dancing and excitement. Much frolicking later, it was the hour to part. To hunt for taxicabs that would deliver us to different corners of the city. We sauntered into the night, half-dreaming of sleep and tall glasses of water.

MARGO'S GUIDE TO MADRID

DAYTIME FUN

-Check out obscure films at Matadero or the beautiful Cine Doré. Tickets cost 3 euros.

-Madrid has some of the best art museums in the world. Modern art fans should check out the Reina Sofia Museum. It's massive and maze-like so bring a snack or have lunch and a coffee first. If you like traditional art (e.g. Velasquez and Goya) visit the Prado. The Fundación Canal usually has interesting shows and it's free. The hip contemporary art galleries are on Calle Doctor Fourquet in Lavapies.

-On Sundays, wander around El Rastro flea market for knickknacks, comic books and sexy magazines from the 70s. It ends around 2 or 3 pm.

-Pop into the bookshops and vintage stores in Malasaña (that's vaguely the Dalston/ Echo Park/ Bushwick of Madrid.)

Madrid in the 80s, source unknown.

THE BEST FOOD (All these are carnivore and vegetarian friendly.)

-My favorite restaurant is 80 Grados. Amazing menu del dia (4 dishes & a drink at lunchtime for €12.50). Try the salmorejo with parmesan ice cream, the truffled egg, and the crazy tiramisu. Make a reservation. c/Manuela Malasaña, 10. 914-458-351.

-Bodega de la Ardosa. Casual tapas bar from 1892. Try the croquetas. Veggies can also ask for a salad or salmorejo minus the jamon. Calle de Colón, 13.

-Chan Street. Chinese street food in Chueca/ Gran Via. (Though the menu appears to be non-vegetarian, veggies can ask which noodle dishes can be made with tofu instead of meat.) Try the saucy onion and garlic noodles, and green beans. Calle de Barbieri, 4.

-Casa Lafu. Elegant Sichuan Chinese restaurant. Calle Flor Baja, 1.

-Grosso Napolitano. Delicious pizza. There's one in Lavapies and one in Malasaña.
-Takos al Pastor. Fantastic, cheap tacos. There is always a long line so get there when it opens.
-Pez Tortilla. Cheap, delicious tortilla with unusual ingredients, as well as tasty croquettes.

-Fit Food. Filling salads and cold-pressed juices when you need to detox, or if you're in some kind of California mood. Not all have the fresh salads (there are 4) but this one does: Calle Génova 25. I suggest the avocado, edamame, tofu, mozzarella, egg, and quinoa salad with pesto dressing. They have lunch deals too for €10.

THE BEST BARS

-Bar Benteveo. Low-key, 70s vibes. Near Lavapies. c/Santa Isabel, 15.

-Toni 2. Classic bar where everyone, young and old, stands around a grand piano and sings Spanish songs. Calle del Almte., 9.

-Picnic. Quiet cafe and bar with tea, beer, and cocktails. Calle Minas, 1. Good for chatting.
-Pavon. Fun, mixed cafe/ bar near Tirso de Molina.

-José Alfredo. Cocktail bar. A little pricey. Calle de Silva, 22.

-Or just walk around Lavapies and Malasaña and see what you find!

A bar in Malasaña, October 2017.

 SMALL DISCOS & LATE NIGHT SPOTS

-Trashcan Music Club (check for 60s nights, it's either hit or miss, as is Fun House), La Vía Láctea (rock/indie scene, better on weekdays), Lucky Dragon, Ballesta (if Seven Mad are DJing), Apartament, Sirocco (updated November 2019)

-Feel free to add more in the comments - I haven't covered the electro scene here...