The next morning we drove to a quiet beach and met two of João’s friends:
Victor, a dapper French man who looks like a young Clark Gable and Mario, a
witty Portuguese diplomat with curly hair and a dry sense of humor. Mario
recalled meeting me in London years ago and we guessed where until we figured
it out. The boys told me about scorpion fish and then we swam in the icy sea.
Afterwards, we went to an outdoor café and ate green bean tempura, a Portuguese
specialty, as well as fried eggs mixed with potatoes and a local sheep cheese.
A tall woman rode past us on a horse, before disappearing into the trees, like
a Magritte painting come to life.
On Saturday I woke up early and visited the flea market. I love looking through
faded postcards, beloved junk, life-size ceramic dogs, unusual books, and other bizarre
treasures. There was a variety of flippers, 90s pornography, and trinkets
shining in the morning sunlight. What really caught my attention were the
records. First I bought a weathered 1970s compilation for a few euros. Then I
saw a hard-to-find record with some excellent breakdance songs on it.
Suddenly, in the only box protected from the sun, appeared an original 1967 vinyl of my favorite Velvet Underground album. My heart beat faster, examining it carefully. The cover had a peel-off banana designed by Andy Warhol. I felt like Indiana Jones discovering the grail. I put the record down, thought about it, then wove back through the people, and asked about the small coffee stain on the cover. The seller cleaned it with alcohol and told me he nearly took the record for himself. We chatted about Lou Reed and then I bought it. I floated through the streets, past the pastel houses, looking for an old ice cream parlor.
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| An accurate picture of me when I'm hungry |
THINGS TO DO IN LISBON
-Walk around different neighborhoods in the center and admire the beautiful colorful houses. Remember to pack shoes that are good for cobblestones and steep hills.
-Visit the museums (e.g. Museo do Oriente, CAM).
-Buy presents (beautiful retro packaged Portuguese things) around Chiado at A vida Portuguesa (spices, old school toothpaste, tinned goods), Claus Porto (soaps, candles, and perfumes), and Benamôr 1925 (beautiful creams and bath products).
-Wake up early and wander around the flea market Fiera da Ladra on Saturday then buy a vintage paperback novel at the bookseller market on Ria Anchieta in Chiado (cash only).
-Take a day trip to Sintra and visit the Palacio da Pena or drive to a surfer beach.
-Nightlife: Go party at Lounge or at the nightclub Lux (opens late) or Damas (fun artsy/queer crowd, arrive early-ish to avoid a long line).
WHERE TO EAT
-My favorite meal in Lisbon was at Farès – it’s a cozy place with incredible Lebanese food. Order the stuffed sweet potatoes and the orange blossom crème brûlée. Rua de S. Paulo 200.
-Enjoy Portuguese food at Faz Frio. It’s open late too. They have private areas for larger tables.
-Rua Santos-O-Velho has two fantastic brunch places (Heim and Mila) as well as Yalla, a Middle Eastern restaurant. Mila is also good for people watching and the service is fast.
-Eat sorbet at Santini gelateria. I loved the melon flavor and the citrus Santini flavor.
-Try veggie versions of Portuguese classics at the vegan comfort food café Kong
-Drink Lisbon’s famous coffee at any classic bar
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| Local creams and a groovy toothpaste |
P.S. Come visit but please don’t move here, my Portuguese friends say. Due to the recent explosion of TED-talk tote-carrying tech people and crypto traders moving to the city the rents have tripled, forcing many locals out of their neighborhoods.
P.P.S. I heard these places were fun but didn’t have time to visit them: cocktails at The Red Frog or Pavilhão Chinês, visiting the Palacio Foz.
For more pictures check out my Instagram: @thefortunyverse .
