Flash Flash |
I took the train
to Barcelona recently. I lived there for a year and a half but this was the
best time I had in the crowded seaside city. There were so many great
moments...a spontaneous trip to the beach with an enchanting Catalan girl and a
beautiful Argentinean, who promptly removed all her clothes as soon as we sat
by the water. We swam in the sea and then lounged in our
underwear, feeling the sand on our legs and the sun warming our skin.
Then we visited my friend the artist Monstruo Espagueti. She gave me a portrait she had drawn of me and I brought her guacamole atop homemade tortilla chips with a slice of lime.
Then we visited my friend the artist Monstruo Espagueti. She gave me a portrait she had drawn of me and I brought her guacamole atop homemade tortilla chips with a slice of lime.
That night my
friend Vir, a pixie from Buenos Aires, and I visited a friend who was djing at
Olgod, a bar that served Beertails. Hold on, they were surprisingly delicious!
A beer mojito is just right when your liver is screaming at you for staying out
until dawn at Primavera Sound the night before. We walked a few minutes until
we came to a small club where an English friend was djing Italodisco. We danced
and talked to a fascinating Tango guitarist. Between the loud music and his
accent, everything he said sounded like leaves rustling in the wind but somehow
I understood what he meant.
The rest of the
weekend I poked around record stores, ate vegan schwarma, wandered around the
Gothic quarter in the moonlight, and saw as many friends as possible.
In hopes that
you'll have an equally exciting time, here's my guide to Barcelona:
The Design Museum |
WHERE TO EAT
1. Casa Lolea,
in El Borne. A delicious tapas restaurant. Order the melty truffle risotto, the
light patatas bravas, and the crispy pan de crystal. Actually, everything here
is fantastic. Make a reservation.
2. Bormuth, in
El Borne. Another great, and cheap, tapas restaurant, for carnivores and
vegetarians. The potatoes "mojo picon" are unforgettable and the
fried aubergine with honey is also tasty. To try a Catalan specialty, order the
spinach with pine nuts. Try the vermut too - ask for "el siphon" if
it's too intense.
3. El Vaso de Oro,
in Barceloneta. This is an old school authentic bar with a few tables and sassy
waiters. Order fried artichokes and fuet (Catalan sausage) and pâté.
There aren't many veggie options. This bar is best for a snack or beers.
4. Sesamo, in
Sant Antoni. This is a low-key vegetarian tapas restaurant that's only open for
dinner. Try the roast cauliflower dish, the gnocchi with beet and cheese sauce,
and the gazpacho. Only open after 7 pm.
5. Sensi Tapas
Mezzanine, in Gothic quarter. Open late, good for big groups. Order the truffle
ravioli, and the zucchini and goat cheese tempura. They also have a tiny paella if you just want a few bites of the famous dish.
6. Flash Flash,
in Eixample/ Gracia. A groovy tortilla restaurant with excellent croquettes. It's the
most lively at lunchtime.
7. Can Mano,
Jaica, and Bitacora, all close by in Barceloneta. The first two are classic,
inexpensive tapas places specializing in seafood and meat dishes. Bitacora is a
little neighborhood restaurant that has amazing patatas bravas and a few
vegetarian options. Bar Fanny, on the corner, has the same kitchen as Bitacora.
8. Pizza Circus,
in Raval. Take-out, cheap and fantastic New York-style pizza by the slice. The
one on Nou de la Rambla street is the best. Another quick, cheap dinner option: Muns empanadas, in Raval
and Poblenou. The best empanadas in town.
9. Hummus Barcelona, in Eixample. Try the energizing vegan schwarma with creamy hummus and a hard-boiled egg, especially if you're low on sleep. The best time to go is weekdays for the menu del dia.
9. Hummus Barcelona, in Eixample. Try the energizing vegan schwarma with creamy hummus and a hard-boiled egg, especially if you're low on sleep. The best time to go is weekdays for the menu del dia.
BRUNCH & COFFEE:
10. Caravelle, in
Raval. They have the best Eggs Benedict and great coffee. Get there early or
there's a long line.
11. Federal, a brunch spot in
the Gothic quarter. There's one in Sant Antoni too but the one in Gothic is
less crowded. They have a hangover-curing dish called shakshuka, which is
delicious.
12. Satan's Coffee
Corner, in the Gothic quarter. Excellent coffee, healthy breakfasts.
SWEETS: Gelaaati
in Gothic has the most original ice cream, Rocambolesc in Raval has the best soft ice
cream with creative toppings like cotton candy, and La Colmena in Gothic has
the tastiest meringues. Make sure to get the tall ones in foil. I like chocolate or lemon.
A bar in Poble Sec |
WHERE TO DRINK
1. Bar Olimpic,
in Raval. This whole street (Joaquin Costa) is filled with bars. Olimpic is
small and charming with cheap cocktails.
2. Foxy, in
Raval/ Sant Antoni. Fun atmosphere, reasonable cocktails and fresh piña coladas.
3. Bar Marsella,
in Raval. Hemingway used to drink at this absinth joint. It's kind of touristy
now but still attracts interesting people and you might run into someone you
know here. I usually do.
4. Madame Jasmine,
in Raval. A hip gay/ mixed bar with outdoor seating.
5. Ølgod
, in Raval, craft beer bar
with beertails. Brooklyn vibes.
There are lots
of bars in Raval, Sant Antoni, Bogatell, and if you want a mellower scene, there's Gracia and Poble Sec. There are plenty of clubs too. The most decadent/ art + disco night is Glove Party.
THINGS TO DO
See Gaudi's
fantastical architecture. To visit Gaudi's masterpiece the Sagrada Familia you
have to book online in advance. Only go to Park Guell on a sunny day to enjoy
the full view. Casa Battlo and La Pedrera are two semi-psychedelic residences
located in Eixample. If you're short on time or money just visit the Palau
Guell in Raval.
Swim in the
Mediterranean. The best beaches are outside the city so hop on a train at Sants
or at Arc de Triomf train station (not metro) and get off at Montgat (R1 to
Matadero), or if you have more time take the R1 (direction: Blanes) to Sant Pol
de Mar, which is 96 minutes away.
Shopping: Pepa Paper has good-looking notebooks
(Consell de Cent, 276. Eixample). Regia
has fantastic perfumes and colognes (Passeig de Gracia, 39. Eixample) and Farmacia del Palau has less expensive
perfumes (Ramblas, 118). Get handmade espadrilles at La Manual Alpargatera (Calle d'Avinyo, 7. Gothic). Buy wine and
Espolon tequila (it's not Spanish but it's hard to find in Europe and will
enhance your trip) at Vins i licors
Vilanova (Placa del Pedro, 7. Raval). Get gifts at Fantastik (Carrer de Joaquin Costa, 62.) La Central has a vast selection of books.
If you like
people watching and collecting things check out Palo Alto market (mostly gigs and food) or Lost & Found market (vintage stuff and records).
Art Museums: The
CCCB, the Design Museum and Macba are the best.
ADVICE -
Barcelona is one of the pickpocket capitals of the world; always keep your hand on
your pocket or bag. Leave your passport and valuables where you're staying-
just keep a photo of the picture page on your phone. Always keep your iphone
out of sight as much as possible; don't leave it on the table at a cafe or talk
on it for long late at night. Also, at bars and restaurants keep your bag in your lap not under the
table or on a chair. Avoid the smaller streets of Raval after midnight if
you're by yourself. Culturally -
be aware that locals generally consider themselves part of Cataluña, not part
of Spain. This is a hot political issue. If you learn some basic words in
Catalan people will appreciate it. Diverteix-te!
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