On my first night I raced
through the city at sunset on a motorbike as the wind lifted the hem of my
dress above my bare knees... A few days later, an enchanting Colombian girl
took me to an ancient tapas bar with no chairs and the best tortilla in Madrid. Then there was the time
my friend Martina, a willowy Austrian with Marc Bolan curls, invited me to
watch the cult Super 8 film 'Arrebato' at the Filmoteca, followed by vermouth
at a bar where they only played vinyl and everyone had long shiny hair. One
evening I strolled through Retiro Park, queasy, yet enjoying the dusk cloaking
the trees in shadows.
A still from 'Arrebato', 1979. |
Grace Jones in Vogue
My friend Will invited us
there to see his band play. The audience was loving Flat Worms, dancing,
drumming their fingers on lanky thighs, and murmuring excitedly, even though it
was only seven o'clock, which is practically the middle of the afternoon in
Spain. After the gig we walked to a quiet bar called Picnic, where they serve
cheap beers and frozen piña coladas.
|
A madrileño, source unknown. |
After the feast of pasta and tiramisu, we stepped into a bar with faded rock posters and old covers of Melody Maker collaged onto the walls and ceilings. Girls were drawing on boys' arms; boys were looking at girls, while others played pool in the corner. I chanced upon an empty barstool and began the tower of coats with my sky-blue raincoat. Mayra and I danced to the 70s rock & roll and soon everyone joined us.
After it got too
crowded, we ambled through a parade of debauchery in Malasaña, to a nightclub called Trashcan. We checked out the mostly Mod
and psych crowd and found a spot near the dj. He was picking out the best 45s.
Every song was fantastic. He put on the Buzzcock's single 'Ever Fallen in
Love...' Everybody danced and sang along and swerved into each other with that
elation that appears sometime between midnight and dawn. We met new friends,
danced and hollered, and continued on our disco safari.
I found some pretty girls on the way to the next little club and invited
them to join us. The brisk walk was enormously refreshing. We were ready for
more dancing and excitement. Much frolicking later, it was the hour to part. To
hunt for taxicabs that would deliver us to different corners of the city. We
sauntered into the night, half-dreaming of sleep and tall glasses of water.
DAYTIME FUN
-Check out obscure films at Matadero or the beautiful Cine
Doré. Tickets cost 3 euros.
-Madrid has some
of the best art museums in the
world. Modern art fans should check out the Reina Sofia Museum. It's massive
and maze-like so bring a snack or have lunch and a coffee first. If you like
traditional art (e.g. Velasquez and Goya) visit the Prado. The Fundación Canal usually
has interesting shows and it's free. The hip contemporary art galleries are on Calle Doctor Fourquet in Lavapies.
-On Sundays,
wander around El Rastro flea market
for knickknacks, comic books and sexy magazines from the 70s. It ends around 2
or 3 pm.
-Pop into the
bookshops and vintage stores in Malasaña (that's vaguely the Dalston/ Echo
Park/ Bushwick of Madrid.)
Madrid in the 80s, source unknown. |
THE BEST FOOD (All these are carnivore and vegetarian friendly.)
-My favorite restaurant is 80 Grados. Amazing menu del dia (4 dishes & a drink at lunchtime for €12.50).
Try the salmorejo with parmesan ice
cream, the truffled egg, and the crazy tiramisu. Make a reservation. c/Manuela
Malasaña, 10. 914-458-351.
-Bodega de la Ardosa. Casual tapas bar from 1892. Try the croquetas. Veggies can also ask for a
salad or salmorejo minus the jamon. Calle de Colón, 13.
-Chan Street. Chinese street food in Chueca/ Gran Via. (Though the
menu appears to be non-vegetarian, veggies can ask which noodle dishes can be
made with tofu instead of meat.) Try the saucy onion and garlic noodles, and
green beans. Calle de Barbieri, 4.
-Casa Lafu. Elegant Sichuan Chinese restaurant. Calle Flor Baja,
1.
-Grosso Napolitano. Delicious pizza. There's one in Lavapies and one in Malasaña.
-Takos al Pastor. Fantastic, cheap tacos. There is always a long line so get there when it opens.
-Pez Tortilla. Cheap, delicious tortilla with unusual ingredients, as well as tasty croquettes.
-Takos al Pastor. Fantastic, cheap tacos. There is always a long line so get there when it opens.
-Pez Tortilla. Cheap, delicious tortilla with unusual ingredients, as well as tasty croquettes.
-Fit Food.
Filling salads and cold-pressed juices when you need to detox, or if you're in some kind of California mood. Not all have
the fresh salads (there are 4) but this one does: Calle Génova 25. I suggest the
avocado, edamame, tofu, mozzarella, egg, and quinoa salad with pesto dressing.
They have lunch deals too for €10.
THE BEST BARS
-Bar
Benteveo. Low-key, 70s vibes. Near Lavapies. c/Santa Isabel, 15.
-Toni
2. Classic bar where everyone, young and old, stands around a grand piano
and sings Spanish songs. Calle del Almte., 9.
-Picnic.
Quiet cafe and bar with tea, beer, and cocktails. Calle Minas, 1. Good for chatting.
-Pavon. Fun, mixed cafe/ bar near Tirso de Molina.
-Pavon. Fun, mixed cafe/ bar near Tirso de Molina.
-José Alfredo.
Cocktail bar. A little pricey. Calle de Silva, 22.
-Or
just walk around Lavapies and
Malasaña
and see what you find!
A bar in Malasaña, October 2017. |
SMALL DISCOS & LATE NIGHT SPOTS
-Trashcan
Music Club (check for 60s nights, it's either hit or miss, as is Fun House), La Vía Láctea (rock/indie scene, better on weekdays), Lucky Dragon, Ballesta (if Seven Mad are DJing), Apartament, Sirocco (updated November 2019)
-Feel
free to add more in the comments - I haven't covered the electro scene here...
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