Meandering in Marrakesh

Recently I had the chance to go to Marrakesh to celebrate the birthday of my beloved friend, Patricia, a poet and alchemist. It’s only a couple of hours from where I live and I’ve always dreamt of going to Morocco so I packed my most demure 1970s garb (inspired by peak Yves Saint Laurent) and a sketchbook and headed down to Marrakesh. As we drove into the city, we saw stone walls, discontent donkeys with matted fur, and a couple of camels crouching beneath palm trees. We walked into the labyrinth of the old souk, down shadowy alleyways, until we arrived at an inconspicuous wooden door. 

Suddenly a French man and his dog opened the door and invited us inside a riad. We walked into this secret courtyard dripping with vines, bright foliage and blossoms. Hundreds of pomegranates lay at our feet. He led us past yellow-painted doors, to our colorful rooms, each decorated with different local embroideries, fresh flowers, and books in various languages. When we returned from our lunch of salads, falafel, spicy hummus, and kiwi juice, a fire was blazing in the hearth of every room.

Over the next few days, we explored the city on foot. We admired the sunken gardens of orange trees and palace ruins. Later, a cool café offered shade and bitter orange cake as Stevie Wonder played in the background. An old man threw a live monkey at our friend as we crossed the famous Djemaa el-Fna square. The creature clung to his arm before he handed it back. A meter away, a fellow wrapped a long cobra around a boy’s shoulders. A nearby table was heaped with fruit, being sliced and squeezed into fresh juice. There was so much to look at in every direction. Later, we drank the colors at the Yves Saint Laurent museum and gardens, overflowing with hot pink bougainvillea, blue architecture, and tall cactus plants. There was a beautiful little restaurant where we sampled orange blossom, pistachio, and date ice creams.

Another day we headed to a different market. My friend Marta and I bought harissa and loose tea made of dried verbena, flower petals, and curved leaves. We asked some local women for directions and they kindly walked us to the square we were looking for. On Patricia’s birthday we sat at a long candlelit table and feasted on crisp pastries stuffed with soft cheese, crunchy salads, hot pears sprinkled with cinnamon, massive artichokes, limpid green beans, clay pots of vegetable stew, and a date cake covered in white, creamy frosting and nuts.

HERE ARE A FEW PLACES I RECOMMEND VISITING:

The Badi Palace, a large ruin with pool, trees, and a view from upstairs.

Bahia Palace, an elaborately decorated palace.

The Saadian Tombs.

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum & Jardin Majorelle & the small Berber Museum. You can get all three on one ticket. If you love fashion, the bookstore at the YSL Museum is excellent – bring a tote bag! The restaurant in the garden is delicious. Try the desserts.

Musée des Confluences, archeology and there’s a famous coffee shop inside.

Djemaa El Fna- a lively (intense) square filled with tourists by day and locals on weekend nights. You can find snake charmers, sad monkeys, hunks of meat, and outdoor dining at communal tables.

Various markets: carry cash in the local currency, and bargain. Look for spices, unusual teas, necklaces, leather goods, cotton pajamas, and argan oil. Try the fresh pomegranate juice.

Leave the center, dressed appropriately (cover your limbs), and explore. There are lots of fascinating things to see. I felt more comfortable when walking with a two-meter-tall Dutchman…so go with a friend.