I had only met Angus twice
before flying with him to Rome. He was a close friend of that summer’s sweetheart.
A few weeks before a few of us had been drinking gin & tonics at a friend’s
house in Peckham when I said “Let’s all go to Italy!” and everyone was excited
about the idea but then it turned out only Angus and I were free.
So here we were, rolling our
suitcases up Via Veneto in the warm sunlight. We checked into a hotel, left our
suitcases on the beds, and dashed off to the Villa Borghese to admire the
Caravaggio paintings and Bernini statues. We were tempted to spend the
afternoon strolling through the park. One time I saw two girls singing and
leaping between those trees before kissing each other and rolling over in the
grass, all arms and tenderness. Who knows what we would see in the park that
afternoon? But evening was approaching and the city was calling.
I led Angus to my favourite
statue, The Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. We stopped in a few more churches before returning
to the hotel. Clean and dressed, Angus wearing some Bogart in Casablanca get-up
and me in a pencil dress off the cover of a pulp novel, we sauntered into the
evening. The sun was setting beyond the Roman rooftops. Vespas growled.
Italians laughed. The streets grew more crowded as we approached Piazza Colonna.
We ate a fantastic fettuccine alfredo at Alfredo alla Scrofa. After we paid the
bill and joked around with the waiter, he gifted us with a box of fettuccine to
make at home. Angus and I walked to the nearby legendary gelato spot Giolitti.
I ordered the sour cherry gelato con
panna (with whipped cream.)
We walked to the Pantheon,
then Piazza Navona, to Campo di Fiore, and over the bridge to Trastevere for cocktails.
Campari-fuelled, we rambled back over the cobblestones, past the majestic
palazzos, to our hotel on the other side of town. The next morning we headed
north...
The Pantheon
WHAT TO DO IN ROME
Of course there are countless
monuments to visit (the Colosseum, the Piazza di Spagna, et cetera) but if you
only have a few hours I suggest walking as much as possible and checking out
these places:
Villa Borghese Gallery - a villa turned into a museum filled with Baroque
masterpieces. Make a reservation in advance. +39 06 841 3979.
The Ecstasy of Saint Teresa - a sculpture by Bernini inside Santa Maria della
Vittoria church, Via 20 Settembre, 17, 00187 Roma.
Alfredo alla Scrofa - I know this is a very touristy joint and a bit expensive but it is
still delicious and worth a visit. Order
the fettuccine alfredo and you will enter cheese rapture. Via della Scrofa,
104/a, 00186 Roma.
Giolitti -
fantastic gelato since 1890. Open until 11 pm or 1 am. Via degli Uffici del Vicario,
40, Roma.
Pantheon –
Roman temple since 126 AD. Open 8.30-7.30. Piazza della Rotonda, 00186
Roma.
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