MARGO'S GUIDE TO PARIS (PART VIII)
Just
in time for Paris fashion week I whipped up a list for my friend Gareth and my
other favourite creatures heading there this weekend. Read on, mes amis...
EXCITING
THINGS TO DO
Honour
the spirit of Serge Gainsbourg, Robert Desnos, and Sartre at the Cimetière de Montparnasse.
Check
out the large format French paintings section in the Louvre (room 77?)
Go
to the Centre Pompidou. If you get there before nightfall go to the top of the
escalator and check out the view- you can see the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur,
and the skyline in between. If you get there after 7 pm (it’s open late on the
weekend) there will be smaller queues. Right now there’s a great Dali
exhibition on.
Buy
‘Pariscope’ at the newsstand to see what’s on. (It’s similar to ‘Time Out.’)
There are so many fantastic museums in Paris. There are also lots of queues so
make sure you’ve eaten first and you’re bundled up or you won’t be in the mood
for culture by the time you get in.
Wander
through the morning flea markets in outer Paris.
Walk
by the Seine and think about life.
Pick
out cheese at markets like Le Marché des Enfants Rouges.
Buy
a 60s dress at Mamz'Elle Swing at 35 Rue du Roi de Sicile. Last Saturday I found a beautiful white
crochet Jane Birkin number for 50 euros.
Visit
Sacre-Coeur and pretend you’re in Amelie.
Watch
endless amount of films (look for v.o. version originale to see stuff in
english or original language) Paris is the best city in the world for cinema
and revival houses.
Explore
St Germaine, Le Marais, Rue des Martyrs, Les Abesses, and Belleville.
+++
WHERE
TO NIBBLE
Lunch
Candelaria, 52 Rue de Saintonge, metro: filles
de calvaire. Affordable, fantastic proper Mexican food. Try the cactus or
verdes tacos. Cool décor- check out the loo. The soundtrack adds to the
ambience: Television and Patti Smith were on last time I was there. Also, the
neighbourhood is good for a stroll. There are some cool galleries nearby.
Le
Loir dans la Théière – Métro Saint Paul , 3, rue des rosiers, in the marais
neighbourhood. Low-key fantastic affordable bistro, no laptops or talking on
your mobile allowed. Nice vibe. Try the courgette omelette and the camembert
epinard tart, and the famous lemon meringue pie. Best pie in France. The queue
outside is totally worth it.
L'Eclair
de Génie, Métro
Saint Paul, 14 Rue Pavée. Actually this is for after lunch. It’s around the
corner from Le Loir dans la Théière. Even if you went there for
lunch-and you should- and you had the famous tarte au citron, pick up one of
these mindblowing eclairs. They are worth the 5 euros and the wait. Seriously.
Dinner (make a reservation first)
For
a romantic but slightly expensive and super delicious dinner:
Hotel
Amour,
8 rue de nevarin, metro: St George or Pigalle, 75009 (Try the memorable lemon
soup, the roast goat cheese salad, and the ravioli is amazing!)
Le
Derrière,
75003 (Explore the whole place and go inside the secret armoire upstairs and
lean back- see what happens. The experience will be more exciting if you don't
read anything about this place beforehand.)
Nightclubs:
Le
Silencio-
This is David Lynch’s club. It can be hard to get into so wear something
original and pretend you're friends with a band David likes. I was hoping it
would be like the bordello in Twin Peaks but it's more of a fancy disco with a
cinema inside. Random crowd, cool décor, drinks are 18 euros. Le Social Club, 75001,
right by Silencio. Electro, techno, not pretentious. Le
Baron- hit or miss. Actually forget nightclubs- why don’t you just get
drunk and shag in an alley? You’re in Paris.
+++
Merci Zoe
et Thomas, my favourite Parisians.
p.s.
here’s another little
guide to Paris...